From The December 2000 Issue of Nutrition Science News

Backtalk

What Major Trends Are Driving The Cosmeceutical Industry?

Stephanie Gailing, C.N.

The term "cosmeceuticals" was coined after numerous products emerged on the market that combined common cosmetic preparations with nutraceuticals. While not officially recognized by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the term is used industrywide to describe products that claim therapeutic value by way of ingredients that affect the structure or function of the skin, hair or nails.

Cosmeceuticals featuring natural ingredients have become big sellers in natural products markets and department stores alike. Understanding which therapeutic compounds are the most sought after is the key to this growing market.

"Cosmeceutical ingredients are most often used in products for anti-aging purposes. Leading the way are antioxidants, which protect against the formation of free radicals produced by exposure to UV light, environmental pollutants and an unhealthy lifestyle. Free radicals play a major role in aging. One of the most widely used antioxidants in skin care products is vitamin C, though ingredients such as green tea and coenzyme Q10 are gaining popularity.

"Botanical skin-lightening ingredients for age spots is another growing trend in cosmeceuticals. Kojic dipalmitate biosynthesized from mushrooms, licorice extract, bearberry extract and mulberry extract have all had promising results in reducing hyperpigmentation without side effects."

Mollie Jensen
Director of Product Research & Development
Zia Natural Skincare
San Francisco, Calif.

"While there is great interest in creating innovative cosmeceuticals on the part of manufacturers, the real focus is on finding ingredients that are compatible with existing formulations. Color is an especially important concern. For example, while there is quite a bit of interest in using green tea in preparations, it is a challenge to maintain a color that is not too dark and that gives a finished appearance that companies and consumers will find attractive.

We have addressed this challenge by modifying the processing of our botanicals so that our products provide their original benefits and also feature physical appearances that are cosmetically appealing. An example is our standardized extract of turmeric that is colorless."

Todd Norton
Executive Vice President
Sabinsa Corporation
Piscataway, N.J.

"Many customers have switched to natural products from department store brands because they want to use fewer synthetic products on their skin. Middle-aged and older individuals look for skin-care products that can help prevent aging. They seek products with antioxidants that help prevent free radical damage to the skin. Younger consumers are looking more for moisturizers with herbal ingredients that provide sun protection factors [SPF]."

Missy Mooney
Associate Team Leader
Wellspring Whole Foods
Winston-Salem, N.C.

"There is increased consumer awareness and commitment to 100 percent natural products. Common concerns are synthetic sunscreen agents, preservative safety, petroleum derivatives and animal testing.

"Products containing green tea are growing in popularity due to recent studies promoting its antioxidant, anticarcinogenic properties. We have also noted that the mainstream professional personal care arena has seen a surge in the use of herbal ingredients such as sea buckthorn oil, which were once utilized only by the natural personal care products industry."

Karyn Trumbach
Consumer Product Consultant
Aubrey Organics Inc.
Tampa, Fla.

"I really feel that an independent cosmetic company has a great chance to build a strong niche in natural product channels if that company has a strong scientific development staff and creates a product that really works. Nutrition consumers are educated and take vitamins to help their bodies from the inside out. These same consumers also want to improve their physical appearance.

"I believe the cosmeceutical trend will move toward including supplements such as coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E not just as 'window dressings,' but in validated scientific formulas that work. As a manufacturer, we've noticed a rise in ingestible cosmeceutical antiwrinkle ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide."

Katie Ferren
Marketing Director
Soft Gel Technologies Inc.
Los Angeles, Calif.