It’s not unreasonable to expect high margins and handsome growth in the beauty category comprised of hair, skin and nails. The skin is the body’s largest organ and people see it every time they open their eyes. The nutraceuticals, or beauty-from-within, category is also experiencing continued growth – and topicals? Fuggetabboutit! The hair, skin and nails category grew at an off-the-charts 31 and 28 percent in mainstream markets in 2011 and 2012, respectively.
The skin care category that is showing the most promise and innovation is antiaging—the lotions, serums and creams promising to prevent (and even reverse) the most common age-related concerns including wrinkles, inflammation and hyperpigmentation. To gain the trust of customers seeking serious results in these areas, natural skin care manufacturers are formulating with high concentrations of top research-backed, targeted anti-aging ingredients, according to Jessica Rubino, deputy editor, consumer and digital, at New Hope Natural Media.
Fi: What are your projections for the growth of the sector for the coming year?
Suhail Ishaq, President of BioCell Technology LLC
The global nutricosmetic market is estimated to be about 2 billion at an annual growth rate of over 10 percent. Europe and Japan leads the market accounting more than 90 percent of the sales, while the US assumes only a single digit. It is difficult to assess how fast the collagen sector in the beauty from within market grows. Considering the general trend and popularity of collagen ingredients relating to skin health, I project that this sector will grow approximately 15 percent annually for the coming years.
Robert H. Veghte, General Manager, Roxlor International
I believe that there will be continued growth in the beauty-from-within sector. The concept is well established in other parts of the world and is gaining traction in the US. The key to growth is having products where consumers can truly see the effects of taking the products. Once consumers trust that these products truly work, I believe that the growth of beauty-from-within products could go exponential.
Fi: What is the key market driver for this category? Conditions like psoriasis or is it simply beauty/anti-aging?
SI: I doubt that dermatologic conditions such as psoriasis are key drivers. Beauty and anti-aging are definitely more influential factors that are driving the growth of this category. This is fueled primarily by the Baby Boomer population as they are more likely to have discretionary income. It is estimated that in the US, 65,000 people are turning 65 every day. The other growth driver is from increased consumer awareness especially by the younger generation, and societal/cultural factors such as the natural living culture and consumer’s favor of less-invasive beauty procedures. The younger generation is more apt to take a holistic approach to skin care by incorporating nutricosmetics into their skincare regimen. When people turn 30 that’s when they usually start worrying about their skin and how to maintain a youthful appearance.
RV: Conditions could play a role in the growth of this sector, however most are considered diseases and therefore are not marketable as dietary supplements. The most marketable application is beauty from within. The US cosmetics market is something like a $30 Billion industry. Ingestible products can improve moisture, elasticity and reduce wrinkles as well and taking even a small percentage of that market would represent huge growth.
Fi: In your opinion and experience, what is the best strategy for success in this category?
SI: I believe that a company needs to take different strategies depending upon geological locations. In more mature markets such as Europe and Japan, consumer awareness regarding the anti-aging effects of collagen is well established, whereas in the US it is still largely dormant and requires further educating. Ultimately, ingredients/supplements that continue to be supported by research will come out as eventual market leaders. For example, BioCell Technology has been leading the collagen category with its patented and clinically substantiated ingredient BioCell Collagen. Recently, a research study that investigated the effect of BioCell Collagen in counteracting facial aging signs revealed that its ingestion for 12 weeks led to a significant reduction of skin dryness/scaling and fine lines/wrinkles. This visible improvement was associated with physiological changes such as elevated collagen content and enhanced blood microcirculation in the dermis. The manuscript has been accepted by a peer-reviewed journal and will publish soon.
RV: The key to success for beauty from within is to have products that work and that people can see results fairly rapidly. This is best achieved by using quality ingredients with clinical studies to support claims and prove to consumers that the products work. If consumers can see results or understand why they may have to buy more than 1 bottle, you are far more likely to create repeat customers.
FI: How can manufacturers and marketers best position products containing your ingredient to catch consumer attention?
SI: They can position BioCell Collagen as a holistic solution to skin beauty because this innovative ingredient is highly differentiated even among collagen ingredients in terms of molecular composition and multi-layered support of skin health. Its major constituents include hydrolyzed collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as hyaluronic acid (HA). Multiple human clinical studies have demonstrated that BioCell Collagen promotes not only joint health but skin beauty from within via multiple physiological mechanisms such as hydration, reduced wrinkles, and enhanced blood microcirculation in the face. The consumer needs to be educated about the comprehensive skin health benefits from the daily ingestion of BioCell Collagen and its associated mechanisms via synergy between hydrolyzed collagen and HA, both of which are essential for skin beauty.
Fi: What opportunities for growth do you see in this market? Do you see unfulfilled niches?
SI: The European and Asian markets will see a substantial growth as the demand for nutricosmetic ingredients remains strong. We see great business opportunities in these markets as our potential client companies look for a strongly substantiated ingredient like BioCell Collagen. The US market is still at the early stage of growth because American consumers tend to want immediate benefits and are reluctant to adopt dietary supplements for their skin beauty. We are working diligently to change this paradigm by educating consumers about BioCell Collagen and the concept of beauty from within. We continue to substantiate BioCell Collagen by rigorous human studies, the outcome of which is to be clearly communicated with consumers.
Condition Specific Directory: SKIN HEALTH
Naturally Sourced Vitamin E
African Bush Products Inc.
AIDP's unique type II collagen glycosaminoglycan offers the complete building blocks for cartilage support, manufactured through a patented process. Kolla2 helps relieve symptoms associated with joint discomfort, including pain and stiffness. In addition, collagen is one of the body’s key natural resources and a component of skin tissue.
City of Industry, California
BioCell Technology LLC
BioCell Collagen II
BioCell Collagen contains hydrolyzed collagen and bioavailable HA, which are essential for the skin dermis. A human skin study demonstrated its daily ingestion counteracted aging signs, such as fine lines and wrinkles, via increasing hydration, collagen content and blood microcirculation. A topical formulation, BioCell Collagen CG, is also available.
A freeze-dried powder of Wasabia japonica, i-Sabi is rich in isothiocyanates (ITC), which induce Nrf2, a master switch for cytoprotective enzymes, providing antioxidant, liver-detoxifying, and Cox2-specific anti-inflammatory properties. This novel nutraceutical is the most potent Wasabia japonica available, containing 15,000 ppm ITC.
Newport Beach, California
Comvita New Zealand Ltd
Hunixa manuka honey
Refined Arlasole DMI delivery enhancer for skin
Bioastin Hawaiian Astaxanthin
Draco Natural Products
Blue honeysuckle berry, Japanese elm, Sanguisorba
Indena USA Inc.
Opextan olive fruit extract
Opextan is an innovative olive fruit extract that may be used both orally and topically. Its characteristic phytonutrient, among other polyphenols, is verbascoside, endowed with potent radical-scavenging activity. Opextan has been demonstrated to reduce skin sensitivity to UV irradiation and to reduce lipid peroxidation and oxidative stress.
InterHealth Nutraceuticals Inc.
Numelle nutmeg extract
Numelle is an extract consisting of 95% pure macelignan from Myristica fragrans (nutmeg). A unique, all natural, anti-aging ingredient, it has been clinically studied to address the three key signs of skin aging. Numelle reduces the appearance of dark spots, reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles, and improves skin firmness.
Clariant product line
Multiple studies validate the benefits of natural carotenoids, like Lyc-O-Mato, a natural tomato lycopene, in mitigating and preventing the damaging effects of UVA and UVB radiation from sunlight on the skin.
Orange, New Jersey
Injuv hyaluronic acid
Soft Gel Technologies Inc.
Injuv softgels contain a patented, low molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid for ease of absorption and delivery. HA is present in the cells of connective tissue, skin and joints, and helps retain moisture for fresh, youthful-looking skin.
Telos Ceuticals LLC
Carogac: Richest Natural Source of Lycopene and Carotenoids
Terry Laboratories LLC
Aloe vera powders and liquids
Aloe vera gels were submitted as a study to show if it is toxic to living skin. The aloe submitted was not only completely nontoxic, but was in fact found to stimulate basal kerantinocyte (skin cell) growth. The research indicates that the higher concentration of aloe vera gel, the larger the increase in skin cell regeneration.
Bakutrol skin anti-microbial