The cosmeceutical concept dates back to 1961, to the founding the of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists. By comparison, nutricosmetics — products to improve skin health, elasticity and appearance from the inside out — is in its relative infancy.

Joysa Winter

August 20, 2010

4 Min Read
Beauty might as well be skin deep

The cosmeceutical concept dates back to 1961, to the founding the of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists. New topically applied products combated everything from aging to cellulite to acne, and by 2007, it had become a $55 billion global industry, The Kline Group reports.

By comparison, nutricosmetics — products to improve skin health, elasticity and appearance from the inside out — is in its relative infancy. A term coined only in the past decade, The Kline Group values the global nutricosmetics market at $1.5 billion, with Europe capturing 55 percent of the market share. Japan follows at 41 percent with the US bringing up the rear with only three percent of the global market.

The market, though, is growing. Market research firm Mintel estimates the global nutricosmetics market will reach $2.5 billion by 2012.

In fact, the combined cosmeceutical/nutricosmetics category is now considered so significant, it was the sole focus of the inaugural NutriCosmetic Summit this June in Las Vegas. Organized by New Hope Natural Media (full disclosure: New Hope owns FI magazine), the summit drew more than 120 manufacturers, suppliers, formulators, marketers and innovators.

Probiotics, Pycnogenol, lycopene
Literally dozens of topical or orally ingested ingredients have been shown to benefit the skin. One of the newest ones on the scene, though, is probiotics, which has been shown to combat eczema.

A 2008 study conducted in New Zealand demonstrated that Danisco's HOWARU Rhamnosus, lactobacillus rhamnosus HN001, reduced by half the occurrence of eczema in infants. HOWARU Rhamnosus was also shown to reduce the severity of symptoms for those infants who, by the age of 2, had already contracted eczema.

Editor's Picks:

Lycopene: Coupled with topically applied sunscreen, ingesting lycopene is one of the best ways to prevent UV damage.
Omega-3s: From fish, krill, flax or algae, omega-3s are great systemic anti-inflammatories.
Hyaluronic acid: Produces collagen, maintains hydration and is an oft-overlooked inside-out beauty ingredient.

More than 230 studies and clinical trials have been done on Natural Health Science's pine-bark ingredient, Pycnogenol, over the past 40 years. A monograph of this research was published by the American Botanical Council in 2009. It focuses on 17 human clinical studies and evaluates a wide variety of its applications, including anti-inflammatory, circulatory and joint-health properties.

Regarding skin care, studies show that pycnogenol helps protect collagen and elastin in the skin from enzymatic degradation. It improves skin elasticity and the microcirculation of blood, as well as offers a photoprotective effect against UV damage. It is also a strong antioxidant, neutralizing a broad range of oxygen radical species.

"The Pycnogenol brand is included in more than 700 dietary supplements, cosmetic products, and functional foods and beverages worldwide," said Victor Ferrari, CEO of Natural Health Science.

In Israel, LycoRed's Lyc-O-Mato lycopene complex has been shown in numerous studies to aid in the prevention of UV-induced skin damage. "Lycopene is more scientifically backed than any other nutricosmetic ingredient," said Udi Alroy, vice president of global marketing and sales. "Lyc-O-Mato is being used in more than 50 nutricosmetic products."

Lyc-O-Mato is a naturally occurring mixture-based product extracted from proprietary lycopene-rich tomatoes. It contains lycopene as well as other well-studied active phytonutrients (phytoene, phytofluene, beta-carotene and vitamin E) suspended in tomato oil. Lyc-O-Mato is provided in soft gelatin capsules for oral dosing.

Lyc-O-Mato as a single agent and in combination with other vitamins or phytonutrients has been evaluated in four clinical skin-protection studies. "Each of these studies indicates efficacy at a Lyc-O-Mato daily dose containing 6-10mg lycopene," Alroy said. "This includes improving parameters of skin health (thickness, reduction of number of sunburn cells), as well as reducing skin damage within weeks of starting dosing. In one of the studies, superiority of Lyc-O-Mato was observed over synthetic lycopene."

No significant adverse effects were reported in any of the studies.

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About the Author(s)

Joysa Winter

Joysa has been reporting on the healthy foods and dietary supplements industry for more than a decade. She is a graduate of the University of Missouri-Columbia School of Journalism and has a master's degree in Hebrew Letters.

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