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in-cosmetics 2010: Celebrating 20 Years of Innovation

in-cosmetics has come a long way since it first opened its doors in 1990 in Birmingham, England with 900 visitors and 60 exhibitors. Now, two decades later it is recognised as the leading global business platform for the personal care industry and is celebrating its twentieth anniversary in Paris this April with the best show yet.

Bringing together the world’s leading cosmetics suppliers, R&D, production and marketing specialists, in-cosmetics showcases a spectacular range of new and innovative cosmetic ingredients and services, and offers a crucial insight into future scientific advances, emerging trends and regulations.

525 exhibitors and more than 4,500 visitors passed through the doors at the 2009 event, which given that the recession was then at its peak, is a reflection of just how much the show has truly established itself at the forefront of innovation and as the event for the industry.

Through the years, in-cosmetics has served as the launch platform for major new product and technology innovations, and the forthcoming event in Paris is sure to be no exception. Taking place on 13-15 April 2010 at Paris Porte de Versailles, the show is expected to welcome more exhibitors and visitors than in 2009, along with a host of new products to be unveiled by the world’s biggest players and niche companies alike.

Europe is one of the largest markets for the cosmetics industry and is growing year-on-year. Within this, France has the largest number of product manufacturers specialising in everything from natural and organic to high performance cosmetics, which makes Paris perfectly placed to host this very special edition of the show. Some of the most well-known companies are, after all, French, including L’Oréal, LVMH, Chanel, Yves Rocher, Clarins and Pierre Fabre, whilst international companies such as Unilever, Shiseido, Beiersdorf, Henkel and Natura all have a strong presence in France.

International exhibitor line-up
All of the big names have already confirmed their spots at the show. Highlighting the business benefits of exhibiting, many companies, big or small, have had a presence at the event every year for over ten years – Croda, Gattefossé, Mibelle, Lubrizol, Provital and Zchimmer & Schwarz to name just a few. In addition, the 2010 event is also attracting several first time exhibitors from across the globe, giving visitors the opportunity to meet many new suppliers. Swedish company Actom, BioEpiderm from Germany, Fuji Sangyo from Japan and Portuguese manufacturer Inovapotek are just a selection of companies poised to showcase their products to an international audience.

While there is a whole host of international exhibitors from more than 35 countries, there will also be a strong local presence, including two pavilions celebrating the very best in French technology and development. The Cosmetic Valley pavilion will feature more than 30 companies, including Naturakem and Laboratoire Monique Remy, whilst Bretagne International will place ten companies centre stage on their pavilion to showcase their latest ingredients and services. One of these is first time exhibitor Diana Naturals, who will be on hand at the pavilion to discuss the benefits of its active Phytonutriance® range.

in-cosmetics gives visitors an unrivalled opportunity to capitalise on the expertise of these international and local companies and will find a wide variety of exciting products and solutions under one roof. Whether they are looking for a new ingredient, ways of improving their formulations or seeking new business contacts, in-cosmetics allows them to speak directly to suppliers who can help. Feedback from visitors confirms in-cosmetics’ well-deserved reputation for product innovation. Lynn Münchow, product development at Beiersdorf commented, “in-cosmetics is the one show for cosmetic raw materials,” whilst Linda Dewachtere, senior category manager at McBride agreed, believing the exhibition is “the place to see what’s new.” To see the full list of first time exhibitors and the products and services they will be offering go to

More than just an exhibition
Not only is in-cosmetics the place to source new ingredients and be inspired for product launches but the unrivalled educational programme also provides an unmissable opportunity to brush up on the latest scientific and marketing knowledge. And for the 20th anniversary show, the Organisers may well have put together the best programme yet – featuring two Regulatory Seminars, Innovation Zone, in-focus, Innovation Seminars, Marketing Trends Presentations, and three Scientific Workshops.

Premiering at in-cosmetics are two Regulatory Seminars designed for visitors with technical knowledge who are involved in R&D and regulations. The first seminar is essential for those wanting to update their knowledge on the new European Regulation on Cosmetic Products. A panel of experts, including Dr. Annelie Struessman, technical director at CONUSBAT, Dr. Werner Schuh (WS), Director Product Safety & Sustainability – Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D at HENKEL AG & Co. KGa and Dr Chris Newsome representing the EFfCI (European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients) will provide an overview of the key changes as a result of the Regulation, the key issues and impacts as well as offer concrete advice on how to be compliant and ready for the changes.

The second Regulatory seminar will be presented by Dr. Alain Khaiat, President of Seers Consulting and Vice-President of the ASEAN Cosmetic Association and Roger Montigny, Asia Zone Coordinator - International Scientific and Technico-Regulatory Affairs at L'Oréal S.A. It will provide participants with a comprehensive overview of the cosmetic regulations in Asia and will cover all major Asian countries examining how a product could be positioned as cosmetic, active cosmetic, quasi-drug or functional cosmetic depending on the country and the claims made.

in-focus, a visionary feature that examines future trends for the global beauty industry, is the central feature at in-cosmetics. It is the forum where ideas are exchanged, current perceptions challenged and product prototypes discussed to stimulate product development.

This April in Paris, the fashion capital of the world, in-focus will look at the science of beauty through the prism of fashion. Some of the best beauty products have such a dramatic sensorial effect on the skin that they make the wearer look and feel as good as when wearing a high fashion item. Conversely, some high fashion items and particular fabrics have been likened to as a second skin. This parallel lays bare the structural and functional relationship between textiles and cosmetics, fashion and beauty.

Visitors will embark on an inspirational journey through swathes of ultra sensorial textures designed as creative new fabrics, colours directly inspired by fashion and fragrance trends - a genuine global "trend book" made of creams, gels, elixirs and powders. Breakthrough technologies, novel formulations and creative ideas will be displayed in dedicated areas, whilst samples of new colours, hair styles and textiles will also be available. Companies signed-up to date include Arch Personal Care Products, BASF, Créations Couleurs, Croda Group, Dow Corning, Gattefossé, Merck, SACI-CFPA, Sinerga, Stéarinerie Dubois and Symrise Formulating laboratories, Affix, Laboratoire BF, Labosphère and Strand Cosmetics will also be involved working with the participants to create prototype products for visitors to sample.

The free-to-visit Innovation Zone is one of the show’s key features and has proven to be extremely popular in previous years. Showcasing the very latest ingredients by exhibitors and beauty products as selected by Mintel, it provides visitors with a ‘one-stop shop’ to quickly identify the major industry launches and examine how beauty innovation has evolved since the 1970s. The finished product section of the Innovation Zone is divided into three themes, “Fountain of Youth” – a look at next-generation anti-ageing technology with emphasis on products targeted at ‘Digital Natives’, men and more mature women. “Beauty Garden” – a fresh harvest of beauty products with actives derived from herbs, fruits and vegetables and “Instant Beauty” – a selection of new launches that highlight convenience and speed for the Modern Urban Nomad

Back by popular demand visitors will be able to take part in two interactive demonstrations. Twice daily there will be Beauty Food Tasting sessions serving up the newest nutricosmetics, beauty foods and beverages handpicked from around the world by the Mintel Beauty Innovation team. Plus an interactive touch and play display, Cosmetic Sparks will spotlight some of the hottest launches and new niche trends and concepts in Japan, China, the US and Europe.

Exhibitors too will be demonstrating their ingredients and products on the Innovation Zone. Air Products, Clariant, Jan Dekker International and Rhodia, are already lined up to show visitors their new developments and allow them to sample and try them. A timetable of all demonstrations is available on the website.

Scientific Workshops will run throughout the show and give attendees a detailed look at some of the current issues influencing the industry. Judi Beerling from Organic Monitor will provide an in-depth look at Preservatives in Cosmetics: The Alternatives to Parabens, covering the controversy surrounding parabens, their effectiveness and the rise in natural alternatives. Professor Dr. Gerd Kutz will then be giving his thoughts on Formulating for Efficacy, detailing how to formulate optimal delivery systems and micro-emulsions, how to choose the best emulsifiers and how to substitute silicones and preservatives with naturally derived raw materials.

Judi Beerling will conclude the programme with a workshop on Formulating Ethical Cosmetics. Consumer demand for fairtrade products continues to grow at a frantic pace and the workshop will look at the potential of the fair trade cosmetics market, investigating what makes a product fairtrade, the major formulation and technical issues when using fairtrade ingredients and how these can be overcome.

The highly popular Innovation Seminar sessions, all 44 of them, are already fully booked by exhibitors. They provide a chance to hear about the latest ingredients and formulation techniques through presentations by the suppliers themselves. Visitors can choose from a wide variety of topics including: the Revival of W/0 Emulsions, Navigating the Complexities of Emulsification Selection, Reliability of Supply of Organic Ingredients,
Preservative Solutions for the EU Cosmetic Ecolabel

Last but not least, the free to attend Marketing Trends Presentations will offer visitors the chance to hear about an array of exciting and key industry topics. One of the highlights will be a panel discussion on How Biodiversity is Transforming the Cosmetic Industry with experts from the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development with representatives from the Union for Ethical BioTrade, Natura, L'Oreal and Shiseido. Fairtrade and sustainability will feature highly with presentations from Organic Monitor Monitor on Corporate Social Responsibility and Sustainability Initiatives, Max Havelaar on Fairtrade and Lush on Cosmetics, Ingredients & Ethics. Innovation and global trends will also be discussed along with the impact of the recession, social media and a talk from Google on How to Use The Internet as a Marketing Tool to Better Understand the Behaviour of Consumers

Lifetime Achievement Award
To celebrate the 20th anniversary, in-cosmetics is launching a brand new Lifetime Achievement Award. The award will honour an outstanding individual whose professional accomplishments have made a significant and lasting impact on the field of cosmetic science.

Commenting on the forthcoming show in Paris, Group Exhibition Manager Richard Hesk said: “Reaching our 20th anniversary is a fantastic milestone and I’m very excited about the 2010 show. Over the years visitors and delegates have come to expect the very best from the educational element of the show, and in particular I’m looking forward to in-focus as fashion is a theme close to my heart! It aims at fusing the world of fashion and the world of beauty so that visitors can imagine personal care beyond the white/clear alternatives; cosmetics are not pharmaceuticals, the way they look and feel count as much as their functional benefits.”

Richard continued: “We are constantly striving to improve in-cosmetics so that visitors and exhibitors get real value out of the show with inspiration, knowledge and contacts to spur new product development. I believe in-cosmetics really is the best forum for developing new business partnerships and keeping ahead of the latest trends and innovations with everything under one roof for just three days. It’s an opportunity not to be missed!’

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